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We motored passed Toarmina at about 9am on the 28th, then cut the fuel line and let the sails do their work. We traversed across the Strait close hauled on a port tack, neatly avoiding the shipping lane. We then motored up the East channel, close in to the mainland coast until we reached Marina Del Stretto in Villa San Giovanni. There was a classic car show that day within the marina -lots of Ferraris, classic Fiats and other exotic vehicles. The town had little to offer but we found an open restaurant for a late breakfast and explored the waterfront. Zefi and Theodore are growing up so fast -I can literally see them grow each day! I can't quite remember but I think we returned to the boat still full from lunch and had a quiet evening with a film. The next day our plan was to exit the Strait and sail West to Vulcano, one of the Aeolian Islands. We knew there would be a head wind and some waves but the reality was a bit more than we bargained for. We were reassured to be joined by another sailing boat making the journey but our concerns grew when we noticed them filming Dragonfly lurching over the waves! We were making very slow progress despite Julia doing some expert helming through the chop. The other boat had enough and turned back toward Messina and it wasn't long before we gave up too. Keeping close to the Sicilian coast, we retreated back into the Strait and out of the waves. Approaching Messina we found a recommended anchorage on the Navily app and stopped there for lunch. The conditions here were very calm so we planned to stay the night. It looks idyllic in the photo above but actually it was a pretty run down bit of coastline with most places closed for the end of the season. Never the less we found a cafe for coffee and pastries, had a lovely swim and chilled on the beach. In the evening we walked along the coastal road to see the church and beyond. Struggling to find an open restaurant we ended up eating pizza in a rather bleak establishment. That night on anchor was rocky and the noise from the furled mainsail banging inside the mast was deafening. I was on deck in the small hours adjusting lines trying to quiet things down. In future the trick might be to slacken off the mainsail halyard so the furled sail sags into the mast -obviously remembering to tighten off before hoisting the sail again or it will do some damage. I had concerns about the tidal current and the anchor holding so set an anchor alarm. As you can see we had nothing to worry about: Moody skies towards the mainland. It's not always laughter and hugs but I'll post photos that make it feel that way, Photographs help to forget as well as remember! The next morning we made a second attempt to reach the islands. True to the forecast, the waves had vanished vernight and we were treated to a calm relaxing crossing. We tried to sail a few times but without the engine we just couldn't find enough speed. On the plotter and AIS the Strait looks hectic and intense but in reality it was simple. Since our refit we transmit as well as receive AIS. This is great for safety as we are visible to other boats. Frustratingly it takes ages for the Marine Traffic app to update our location. I think we are still stuck in the location above! Julia on the helm while I check for dolphins :)
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October 2025
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