So it has finally happened.. we have sold Bumblebee.
It's possible to get attached to things like cars, houses and boats -they have character, keep us safe and together we experience life's wonders.  Bumblebee is even more than this. Julia and I learned to sail on her and spent a summer exploring the Med, with friends joining us along the way. This was ten years ago. The six months together at sea strengthened our relationship and once back on dry land Julia agreed to marry me. Our honeymoon was spent on Bumblebee exploring the Balearics.  Years later our children's first experience of sailing was on this wonderful boat.  She has a very special place in our hearts and it was going to be difficult to say goodbye.

With Bumblebee under offer, I flew out to Valencia alone with a day spare to clean and check everything was in order. The following day I would meet up with Paco our broker, Jesús her new owner and his sailing instructor friend as advisor. The following morning I would fly back to Warsaw.

I gave the deck a thorough wash and scrub as a thunderstorm built around me.  Once the rain came I headed down below deck to tackle a few jobs.  First was to service the forward head which was not drawing water to flush.  Upon replacing the seals I discovered this unfortunate fish had perished inside the valve.  With that sorted I then reattached the engine inspection cover strut which the mechanic had removed.  I also removed and cleaned the log wheel but would later realise I cleaned the obsolete old one by mistake.  One shower drain pump needed replacing but the part was out if stock at the chandlery.  Other that this she was in fine shape and with a calm sunny day forecast for tomorrow I had no concerns about the sea trial the next day.

On Tuesday morning we all met onboard and cast off for the South Marina, about 45 mins away.  All went well and we lifted her for a hull inspection that also confirmed no nasties.

Smiles all round so we lifted her back into the water and returned to her berth to complete the paperwork.  I was then alone to lock up and say goodbye to Bumblebee for the last time.  I took my time and thanked her for all the wonderful memories.  Feeling emotional I walked back to my hotel.

I spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying Valencia, knowing that our regular visits to this wonderful city were at an end. I had a fantastic meal at Casa Montana and was delighted to sit next to the same Dutch couple who were beside me at La Sastrería the night before, their kids, the same age as Z & T, tucked up nearby but monitored on camera.

Not my hotel but I dropped in to see why it's over ten times the price.

The next few posts cover a ten day trip with Zefi (5) & Theo (3) onboard plus Peter and Brigida as we sail with the kids for the first time. The aim is to deliver Dragonfly from the South to the North of Sicily where she will receive a new teak deck.

From the Strait of Messina we sailed and motored for about 4 hours to the island of Vulcano -famous for it's active volcano, black sand and sulphurous hot springs.  We had visited the island ten years earlier and even had Peter with us that time too.  On arrival we considered anchoring but the steep drop off makes it tricky, instead we chose to take a mooring buoy. A lucky choice as we would see gusts of 34 kts the next morning.  The marinero managing the mooring advised us of strong winds coming but we planned to be in Portorossa marina on the mainland within 48 hours when the wind was expected.

Jozefina and Theodore delighted in the black sand and stinky sulphurous air!

We swam on the beach and explored the town for a while before returning to collect warmer layers for the evening.  The beach was buzzing with mosquitos so on our return with the dinghy we tied up in the harbour. We had a delicious supper ashore then returned to Dragonfly for the night.  In the morning we woke to heavy skies and waited out a thunderstorm safely attached to out mooring buoy while others tended to their anchors.

The island looked a bit different after a torrential downpour!

We explored the other beach on the West coast, it was just 5 minutes away.  Then we headed back to the boat at about 3pm to set sail for the mainland. Our destination was Portorosso Marina at Tonnarella where we would meet Carlo and leave Dragonfly with him for the next two months. She was booked in to have her teak deck stripped and replaced with new wood. This was the entire purpose of our trip north and the end was within sight.

Throughout this trip the kids had been fantastic.  We had no idea what to expect from them but with plans to live on the boat for a few months next years we were relieved that they took to sailing so well.  I think on Bumblebee they might've gone a little crazy with the lack of space but on Dragonfly they could spread out and enjoy different areas of the boat, interact, explore and even be alone.

The crossing back was peaceful and calm despite the storms forecast to arrive soon.

We left Dragonfly on the 2nd of October in the hands of Carlo and Spartivento Marina at Portorosso.  This is a strange place, half abandoned with derelict buildings but operating as a busy charter base.  We will return at the end of December, hopefully to a gleaming new 10mm teak deck.  Many of the deck fitting will be removed and reinstalled for the work so I hope nothing leaks.  We have also entrusted some engine and outboard maintenance to a colleague of Carlo, plus the fuel gauge repair, dinghy fix and bimini stitching.  If all is carried out as intended, we will have a fully operational Sun Odyssey 49 DS and will endeavour to keep her that way.

We motored passed Toarmina at about 9am on the 28th, then cut the fuel line and let the sails do their work. We traversed across the Strait close hauled on a port tack, neatly avoiding the shipping lane. We then motored up the East channel, close in to the mainland coast until we reached Marina Del Stretto in Villa San Giovanni.

There was a classic car show that day within the marina -lots of Ferraris, classic Fiats and other exotic vehicles.

The town had little to offer but we found an open restaurant for a late breakfast and explored the waterfront. 

Zefi and Theodore are growing up so fast -I can literally see them grow each day!

I can't quite remember but I think we returned to the boat still full from lunch and had a quiet evening with a film.

The next day our plan was to exit the Strait and sail West to Vulcano, one of the Aeolian Islands.  We knew there would be a head wind and some waves but the reality was a bit more than we bargained for.  We were reassured to be joined by another sailing boat making the journey but our concerns grew when we noticed them filming Dragonfly lurching over the waves!  We were making very slow progress despite Julia doing some expert helming through the chop.  The other boat had enough and turned back toward Messina and it wasn't long before we gave up too.

Keeping close to the Sicilian coast, we retreated back into the Strait and out of the waves.  Approaching Messina we found a recommended anchorage on the Navily app and stopped there for lunch.

The conditions here were very calm so we planned to stay the night. It looks idyllic in the photo above but actually it was a pretty run down bit of coastline with most places closed for the end of the season.  Never the less we found a cafe for coffee and pastries, had a lovely swim and chilled on the beach.

In the evening we walked along the coastal road to see the church and beyond. Struggling to find an open restaurant we ended up eating pizza in a rather bleak establishment.  That night on anchor was rocky and the noise from the furled mainsail banging inside the mast was deafening. I was on deck in the small hours adjusting lines trying to quiet things down.  In future the trick might be to slacken off the mainsail halyard so the furled sail sags into the mast -obviously remembering to tighten off before hoisting the sail again or it will do some damage.  I had concerns about the tidal current and the anchor holding so set an anchor alarm. As you can see we had nothing to worry about:

Moody skies towards the mainland.

It's not always laughter and hugs but I'll post photos that make it feel that way,  Photographs help to forget as well as remember!

The next morning we made a second attempt to reach the islands. True to the forecast, the waves had vanished vernight and we were treated to a calm relaxing crossing. We tried to sail a few times but without the engine we just couldn't find enough speed.  On the plotter and AIS the Strait looks hectic and intense but in reality it was simple.

Since our refit we transmit as well as receive AIS. This is great for safety as we are visible to other boats. Frustratingly it takes ages for the Marine Traffic app to update our location. I think we are still stuck in the location above!

Julia on the helm while I check for dolphins :)

Day 5 of our 10 day trip.

Peter and Brigida flew in to Catania close to midnight on the 26th of September and met us on Dragonfly at Blu Marina, inside Catania harbour.  Zefi and Theo were delighted to discover we had guests the next morning. After breakfast we se off to explore Catania.

The kids by this point had been eaten alive by mosquitos -evil ones that targeted their hands and feet.  We had plug-in repellents, deet and anti-histamine cream but these few days were highlighted by squeals of frustration at painfully itchy bites. I would often wake at night to their buzzing and hunt down the horrible things around the cabin.

Ashore we found a wonderful antique shop with a stunning 1820's mercury mirror in a Sicilian gilt empire frame.  It had a crack in the glass but could be a perfect replacement for the widescreen tv that dominates the saloon.  We might have to stop in again on our way back down in December.  We love watching films but prefer a projector and screen that can be stashed away most of the time.

We were still dodging thunderstorms and managed to buy raincoats for Julia and myself but failed to find anything for the kids.  For this same reason I left my Leica onboard -a decision I later regretted as we stumbled upon a buzzing street market.  Perhaps the difference in photos from camera vs phone is obvious, if not, the camera ones are often posted with a black frame.  In the old town square we found a wonderful traditional cafe serving delicious pastries with the grumpiest waitress!

Being a Saturday, the fish market was in full swing. We were late but there was still a chaotic energy as market stalls tried to sell the last of their produce.  People bustled in every direction while we tried not to lose the children.  Peter bought a round of oysters while Zefi turned her nose up at the sight of anything slimy!  The variety seafood, meat and fresh produce was amazing.

Peter and Brigida brought along colouring books and pencils for the kids, which Zefi can be seen carrying with her everywhere.

Heavily laden with lots of fresh food, we headed back to the boat.  We cast off from the marina in Catania mid-afternoon on the 27th with the aim of anchoring below Taormina.  We wanted to make good progress so we could spend a couple of days in the Aeolian Islands.

Sporting our new waterproofs -these were bought just in time as we were about to hit some severe rain!  It's hard to show with a photo but the sky went black and visibility dropped to about 50 meters.  It was forecast to clear by the evening so while the others were snug down below, myself and Peter were battered by the elements. Eventually we  decided to forego our planned anchorage by Taormina and seek shelter in the closer marina at Riposto, beside Mt Etna.  As expected we arrived at the marina as the skies cleared and a beautiful evening lay ahead of us.

We dined onboard after a wander around Riposto and picking up a couple of nice bottles of wine.  The next morning we refuelled and set off again.  Our fuel usage relies on a bit of maths and guess work as our fuel gauge needs to be repaired.  It turned out we had used half of our 240l tank since leaving Malta and covering 185 NM. This was expected as the winds had not been very favourable and the engine had done a lot of work.  We have two full fuel canisters in the forward locker so running out was not a worry.

Soon we will figure out how to post screenshots with our progress track but for now we are still getting used to the new chart plotter.  The log began at zero with the refit in Malta so shows exactly how far we have travelled.

These guys like to have a proper breakfast together each morning to start the day!

We set off past Toarmina on our way towards the Strait, plotting a course for the tip of the mainland to make use of the favourable sailing conditions and to keep clear of the shipping channels.  The kids were delighted to briefly spot dolphins then Theodore snoozed while Zefi busied herself with a photoshoot for her toys.

With ten days of sailing ahead of us we set off from Warsaw to Catania with Jozefina and Theodore.  This would be their first proper sailing experience and with big plans for the future -there was a lot riding on us all enjoying a safe trip.

The plan was to sail Dragonfly from her annual mooring at Ragusa, all the way up to Tonnarella in the north where she would stay on her own for 2 months to have her teak deck replaced by Carlo and his team at Teacmarine.it.  At first glance the wood looks fine but on closer inspection 19 years of use has taken it's toll with hundreds of visible sanded screw heads, caulking coming free and the wood thinning.  We found Ragusa quite thin on  marine services so hoped that the north would provided mechanics and electricians for a few of the other maintenance jobs.

The two aft cabins on Dragonfly have a clever trick of becoming one by simply removing and stashing the dividing wall. This gives a huge 4m wide bed -space for a whole family to sleep.

We spend the first night on our berth in Ragusa to acclimatise Zefi and Theo to their new surroundings. We gathered a few bits and bobs from the nearby chandlery and some basic rations from a deli and mini market -hoping to soon be in Syracuse with a bit more choice of shops.

The town and marina at Marina De Ragusa is spread out and requires a lot of walking. We haven't yet fallen in love with the place but really liked the restaurants within the marina especially Fresco and the pizza restaurant on the roof.

Being late September, the weather was changeable and a thunderstorm never felt far away. We anchored for our second night midway between Ragusa and Syracuse in a bay called Portopalo.  That night we saw a big electrical storm in the distance, the Windy app showed Malta in the eye of the storm while Dragonfly rocked a bit on anchor a long way away.

On day 3 we set sail for Syracuse. We actually motored most of the way there as the wind was not in our favour -this was a problem throughout the trip as our destination and the prevailing winds were at odds with each other.  Julia and I have been to Syracuse before and absolutely love the place. Sadly we would only be there for one night and would have enjoyed more time.

We anchored in the Grand Harbour and took the tender ashore next to a tiny beach. Julia and the kids swam while I took a table at the bar and ordered some drinks.  We had quite a shopping list as Dragonfly was missing a few essentials. We love Sicilian ceramics so we 'invested' in some beautiful hand painted plates and bowls. With luck, the next shop we found had almost everything else we needed; pots and pans, cooking utensils, pillows etc.. Dragging heavy bags and tired children we were lucky to find a lovely little restaurant close by to the dinghy. They even sold their own olive oil -the only thing left on our list!

With the children onboard and fast changing weather we tried to keep each day down to about 3 or 4 hours of sailing. We needed to keep moving as our friends Peter and Brigida were joining us in Catania for the week to come.  The wind was not ideal but the sea was very calm and our journey took little effort. Zefi and Theo were very happy painting and playing.  We tried to save films on the laptop for when we were mooring so they would be happily occupied down below.

As we approached Catania we were treated to stunning views of Etna emerging through the clearing clouds.

We reached Catania and booked a berth at Blu Marins via the Navily app -this app didn't exist when we sailed ten years ago but I wish it had. It has details, prices, reviews, forecasts etc.. for every marina and anchorage. You can book through the app and keep your boat documents uploaded for easy access by the marinas.  Blu Marine turned out to be basic and very tired, luckily the app prepared us for this -much like Catania itself which presentsa a visceral experience of faded grandeur.  While the town is busy, tired and dirty we soon discovered Catania for what it is -a fascinating town with a rich history. But not great for feeding tired children early in the evening!

Eventually we found an open restaurant with boardgames and chips so the kids were happy.  We explored a bit then took a taxi back to Dragonfly as the roads crossings were dangerous.  With children soon asleep we awaited Peter and Brigida's arrival.